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The Differences and Usage of BHA, AHA and PHA
2024.12.05
Salicylic acid's superior properties - fat-soluble, low irritation, can penetrate deep into pores.
(1) The best choice for exfoliating sensitive and sebum-leaking skin:
AHA is water-soluble and small molecular, so it can easily penetrate into the deeper layers of the epidermis, even into the dermis. AHA can directly affect the metabolism of epidermal basal cells and promote the proliferation of dermal collagen. The higher the concentration, the faster the effect may be, but the relative damage may also be greater.
Salicylic acid BHA is fat-soluble and large molecular. It just has effect in the shallow keratin layer but not affect active epidermal cells. BHA is superior in terms of stability and irritation, so that users feel less irritation, such as stinging and burning. The cumulative irritation and inflammation are also less than AHA.
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(2) A powerful tool for removing acne and shrinking pores:
Salicylic acid BHA has many more superior characteristics, and removing blackheads is one of them. Because human keratin is rich in lipids, the fat-soluble properties of salicylic acid can penetrate into the stratum corneum and deep into the pores by fusing with lipids without irritating the dermis. Compared with AHA, it is difficult to stay in the pores for a long time, and there are limitations on thoroughly cleaning the sebum accumulated in the pores. If you want to treat pore acne problems without burning the skin, you need to be very careful and accurate in the concentration and time of using AHA.
AHA can unclog the pores, and salicylic acid can further remove the waste inside. BHA cleans the excessive sebum and keratin accumulated in the pores, which helps reduce acne caused by blocked hair follicles.
PHA is a milder hydroxy acid, which is more suitable for dry and sensitive skin. Compared with AHA, PHA is a large molecular and not easy to penetrate deep into the skin, but it has a better effect on strong old keratin on the surface. Common PHAs on the market are polyhydroxyalkanoates. Common products include PHA serum, PHA mask, etc.
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The difference between AHA and BHA:
With good formula, both AHA and BHA are pretty good for exfoliating the surface of the skin. They have many similarities in terms of hydration, wrinkle reduction, collagen stimulation and skin tightening. Both can also reduce skin spots caused by sunburn and obvious marks left on the skin surface after acne heals. But they still have their own different characteristics:
1. AHA is more suitable for people whose skin problems are mainly sunburn and excessive dryness, because they mainly remove the top layer of skin. AHA cannot penetrate sebum, so it is not so suitable for people with oily/combination skin.
2. BHA is more suitable for people with oily skin and acne-prone skin whose main skin problems are blackheads, large pores and whiteheads, because BHA can penetrate the oil that clogs the pores and restore the base of the pores that are blocked and cause acne to normal.
3. BHA has the effect of improving inflammatory response and antibacterial. That’s why choose a BHA exfoliant, especially if you have acne or sensitive skin with redness.
For oily skin, salicylic acid is more suitable because it is fat-soluble and can penetrate deep into the pores to deeply cleanse the dead skin cells. When the pores are unblocked, the skin will absorb the ingredients more efficiently.
How do you know if you need an AHA, BHA or PHA?
First, analyze your skin type and current skin problems - if you have dry skin and are stressed by skin problems on the surface of the skin (such as acne scars, dark spots, sun damage, dullness), go for products with AHAs (or PHAs if you have sensitive skin).
BHAs are best for oily and acne-prone skin with clogged pores and excess oil, while PHAs are suitable for all skin types, especially dry, sensitive skin, including rosacea and eczema skin, which AHAs and BHAs cannot tolerate.
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Note that AHAs increase sensitivity to the sun (compared to BHAs and PHAs) - you should always wear sunscreen after exfoliating to prevent further sun damage.
BHA, PHA, and AHA are three different types of salicylic acid, each suitable for different skin types. BHA is suitable for oily and acne-prone skin, PHA is suitable for dry and sensitive skin, and AHA is suitable for aging skin. When using salicylic acid products, you need to pay attention to gentle use, sun protection, and avoid excessive use.
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